Friedrich P10S 9,700 BTU Portable Air Conditioner with 9,700 BTU Heat Pump, 8.4 EER, R410A Refrigerant, 4.4 Pts/Hr Dehumidification, Sleep.

Danby DPA120E1BDB 12,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner: Ultimate Buyers Guide The focus of this review is the Danby DPA120E1BDB 12,000 BTU portable air conditioner. This article continues in our series of review of the Danby line of portable air conditioners. Here we provide you with everything you need to make an informed purchasing decision.

The DPA120E1BDB model number represents one of two identical air conditioners. The other model is the Danby DPA120E1WDB portable air conditioner. The only difference between the two is simply that the colors are different. The DPA120E1BDB is black whereas the DPA120E1WDB is white.

Click these links to check the latest Amazon prices here and here. Both models are 12,000 BTU units with a stated cooling capacity of 550 square feet. If this capacity is larger than what your needs require, you may also like to review one of the smaller models. Free Download Beat Maker Software Full Version For Pc. The Danby portable air conditioners advertise a good list of features and functions. And the DPA120E1BDB/DPA120E1WDB models are no different. But are either of these units right for you?

Keep reading to find out! To quickly find the answers you’re looking for, click the link in the table. Otherwise, keep reading the review. Contents • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Our other Danby review articles can be found by clicking on the links below.

• • Danby DPA120E1BDB Portable Air Conditioner Product Specifications Danby DPA120E1BDB Portable Air Conditioner List of Features As stated above, the Danby DPA120E1BDB and the DPA120E1WDB air conditioners are identical except for the color. The DPA120E1BDB version is black and the DPA120E1WDB is white. Therefore, all features and functions apply to both even though we’ll be focusing on the DPA120E1BDB The DPA120E1BDB is a mid-to-large-size unit with a stated cooling capability of up to 550 sq ft. Included with this unit is a nice set of features and functions.

Based on our experience, here are the most frequently asked questions about portable air conditioning units, along with their answers. • • • • • • • • • • • If you have any questions that you don’t see listed here, please leave us a comment below or give our product experts a call at 1.800.297.6076. What is a portable air conditioner? A portable air conditioner is an air conditioner that is mobile. Unlike,, or, portable units do not require permanent installation. Commonly, these units have caster wheels for easy portability, are relatively lightweight and are generally about 28″ to 34″ tall. Do all portable air conditioners need to vent?

The short answer is yes. Much like any air conditioning system, all portable air conditioners need to be vented in some form or fashion. Portable air conditioners pull in warm air, cool it, and expel the cooled air out of the front of the unit and the remaining warm air and moisture out of the back of the unit. It is this warm air and moisture that needs to be vented out of the room you are currently cooling. The easiest and most popular way to vent your portable AC unit is through a nearby window, which is why each and every portable air conditioner we offer on our site includes an easy-to-use window snap kit. What happens to the moisture that is pulled out of the air? Since portable air conditioners pull moisture as well as heat out of the air, many people are concerned about where the water goes.

Many units, specifically all EdgeStar and Koldfront portable air conditioners, have self-evaporative technology. This innovative technology internally processes and evaporates the collected moisture and then exhausts it out of the back of the unit. In climates that are extra humid, some water may collect in a reservoir located inside the unit. In this case, you can either manually empty the reservoir when it is full or use the integrated gravity drain. With that said, due to recent advancements in portable air conditioner technology, the need to drain is increasingly rare. How noisy is a portable air conditioner?

Because of the differences in personal preference, this can be a hard question to answer. Since portable air conditioners contain both a compressor and fan, they sound similar to a, which most of us have heard at one time or another. With that said, you want to pay attention to a portable air conditioners decibel rating (dB level) which is located on each product description page. Most units fall anywhere between 48 dB (which is the same noise level as falling rain) and 60 dB (which is the same noise level as a normal conversation).

What factors should I consider when looking for a portable air conditioner? General Electric Dvr Software. BTUs/Room Size — A portable air conditioner’s how powerful the unit is. This directly affects the room size and how quickly the unit will be able to cool. The higher the BTU, the larger the area the portable air conditioner can efficiently cool. Single or Dual Hose Design — Single-hosed units expel warm air and moisture and are easy to install.

Double-hosed units, which are also fairly easy to install, expel warm air and moisture while simultaneously pulling in more air to cool. Read More: 6. Do portable air conditioners require any unusual power accommodations? All of the portable air conditioners that we carry operate on 115 Volt / 60 Hertz. This is standard household voltage.

These units come with a “three prong” grounded plug. Are portable air conditioners energy efficient? A good rule of thumb is to look at the Energy Efficiency Rating (EER) of the air conditioner you are purchasing. The higher the EER, the more energy efficient the portable air conditioner is. Also, by cooling specific areas, your portable air conditioner gives you the freedom to use your central air conditioning system less, if at all, which will significantly. How long is the exhaust hose that the portable air conditioner comes with? Exhaust hose lengths vary by model, but generally they are 4-7 feet in length.

They are made of a temperature-resistant plastic reinforced with metal. Can I vent a portable air conditioner out a dryer vent? Generally, this is not recommended by the manufacturer, especially if the diameter of the vent hose is greater than the diameter of the dryer vent. A standard dryer vent is 4″. Most portable air conditioners have 5″ exhaust hoses.

Some units have smaller diameter vent hoses, and these units may be vented out a dryer vent. However, you should not use the external part of the dryer vent that has flaps, as the compressor is not strong enough to push these flaps open. If you need to cover that exterior opening of the vent, we recommend using a screen. Can I cool my garage using a portable air conditioner? Although it is not typically recommended that you do so, there are a few factors that, when manipulated, can accommodate this cooling set up. We would recommend you read the following article for more information.

Read More: 11. Can I use a portable air conditioner to cool my server room? Although these are not industrial machines, this is an excellent use for a portable air conditioner. Even with central air, computer server rooms have more robust cooling needs than other parts of the building tend to require. A portable air conditioner, such as, works well to boost the.

Filed Under:,,,, Tagged With:,,,,. I need to regulate temperature in a basement room (about 10′ by 10′) that I use for a cellar. It is extremely damp in our basement so I need a unit that will regulate both temperature and humidty, and I need to be able to control those separately.

We have no windows there, so I aim to vent exhaust into the cieling. This is an actual cieling however, not a drop cieling. Is this okay to do?

I’m worried about the moisture that the unit evaporates into exhaust could cause mold growth inside our walls. Is this a legitimate concern?

Our house is 2 stories, so there is a large distance between the cieling in our basement cellar and the top floor attic. The current dehumidifier I’m using has a pump and a line that I run to our pay dry tub. Is there an AC unit that would expel water this same way while exhausting hot air through a vent to the cieling? I second Judi: Can I vent my portable ac hooked up to the bathroom exhaust vent?

This would be a semi-permanent installation. So the idea would be to cut into the duct just above the bathroom fan and tap the AC exhaust in there. To ensure the hot air didn’t just come out into the bathroom, I’d install a grill with shutters in place of the standard bathroom fan grill. So we’d close the shutters, turn on the AC, and the hot air would vent up the bathroom fan duct. I foresee two potential issues: 1. IIRC bathroom fan ducts are typically 4″ — not 5″ like most portable AC exhaust hoses. It’s about 30 feet, maybe a tad more, from the fan grill to the outlet–and that’s a horizontal run, not vertical.

I have no idea how much CFM a portable AC cooling vent puts out; IIRC a bathroom vent fan is something like 50 CFM and I assume a portable AC puts out more. I’d be willing to install a helper fan in the duct, if that’s a thingnot sure if that’s a thing though.

The other question is where to vent the cool air. We could put the portable AC on a high ledge just outside the bathroom and let the cool air come out the portable AC’s existing duct. Or we could put the portable AC in the bathroom itself (letting us close the bathroom door for quieter operation) and vent the cool air into the intake for our forced-air heater blower (which can also be run without the heater on); I assume this would distribute the air better than the AC’s blower alone could do. One alternative to all of the above would be to try to find the duct for the vent just before it exits the wall to the outside, and tap into it there. In case you didn’t guess, the deal is that we live in a condo where we can’t make any new holes through the exterior walls, so the obvious logical answer of a mini-split system is out. Right now we have our portable AC (largest size you can buy) vented through a plexiglass window that replaces the screen for our crank-out window.

This works fairly well, especially because it’s a 2-hose AC. We’d lose the benefit of the second hose if exhausting through the bathroom vent duct hole, but we’d also be able to close the well-sealed dual-pane window, so the net effect might be a wash. AC units do not “pull in humidity” to cool the air.

They work like a refrigerator, in that a thermal gas or liquid flows at relatively low pressure through the internal air space where the units’ fan is moving the air through. Being much colder than that air causes the chilled pipes and vanes to absorb the heat energy from passing air. The now warmer thermal agent is pulled through the system into the compressor, where it is composed into a much higher pressure, this causes the temperature to dramatically increase, then it’s pumped at pressure through the radiant pipes and vanes that are in those parts of the unit for expelling heat, where the then cooler air absorbs that excess heat, and it’s carried outside, either by hose (portable) or direct airflow (window mount).

The material then moves towards the end of the radiator where it passes through a pressure valve (keeping high pressure in the radiator, low pressure outside of the radiator). This transition from high pressure to low makes the gas expand, dramatically reducing it’s temperature, and starting the cycle again. The moisture AC units ‘produce’ is condensation from the warm indoor air moving past the cooling pipes and vanes, as water vapor cools, it can reach condensation level, and revert back to a liquid from its vapor state. Hope that helped.